Pattern transfer kits by master engraver Michael Dubber

Clean and prepare surface; this will work on most surfaces, including metal, bone, mother of pearl, glass, and many others. I use alcohol and plain white toilet paper to clean the surface; most rags and paper towels have some degree of oil in them. Here is a plate that clean and polished the plate is 2" x 4."

Apply my mixture with a clean q-tip, use a new one each time, and immediately blow it dry using your breath; it will turn dull and is now ready to use. It will feel dry to the touch.

Get your art ready I draw all of my stuff two times as large as I want; this gives me more detail, and then I scan and reduce by 50%. How you get the art and images is up to you, but they need to be black and white or greyscale for this to work well. Using your computer and printer, print the art on the film using the best setting for the printer and greyscale only for ink choice. There are too many art programs and printers for any more on this here. I print at least 3 of the same image so I can restore or use as an overlay to check my work. This method also makes the text so simple it hurts just remember to mirror the images, so when you apply them, they are correct.

Position and tape the images on your work, then burnish using firm force; my mixture will allow the ink to move to the part with all of the detail you can print on the film. If part of the image is damaged, simply position another over the top and reapply; also helpful for cutting gold for inlays- use one for the gold and one to cut by. After all, they are identical easy as 1-2-3-4.